Do It Naturally

When our hair grows, the texture of our new growth naturally has more volume.   If you have natural hair then this should not be an issue when you straighten your hair because you can choose how straight you want it to be. However, if you relax your hair, allowing your new growth to hang around a little longer before your touch-ups will greatly assist in adding volume.   Wash your hair thoroughly, condition for moisture, and blow dry for more lift.   This is the most highly recommended way to add volume.

Volumizing Shampoo

Some shampoos  for creating volume contain ingredients like paraffin wax that coats the hair and weighs it down.   TRESeme’ Volumizing Shampoo is among the best available that adds a healthy boost of luster and fullness to even the flattest and limpest hair and is safe to use daily.   As you are shampooing, you can feel the silk proteins adding softness and moisture. Shampoo by gently massaging into hair from roots to tip, removing excess build-up and oil that may contribute to the flatness of your hair.   Blow dry, add a little oil sheen, and style as usual.

Volumizing Mousse

If you want to focus on the roots alone, then simply add a little volumizing mousse to wet hair and blow dry roots.   Using a brush with ball-tipped bristles, grab portions of the hair ends upwards and blow dry the hair at the roots being careful not to comb or brush them while wet.   As with most mousses, they contain a holding ingredient that causes the hair to stiffen, allowing it to be molded.   While this works for some women who love the idea of a strong hold, it is not my favorite option because I do not like using gels and mousses for their hair drying properties.

Clip-on Tracks

These are great and every woman should have a couple on reserve just in case.   They are easy to apply and just as easy to remove.   Clip-on tracks are snippets of weave tracks that can range from about an inch to about six inches in length, depending on where on the head it is being placed.   These snippets of hair are firmly attached to wig clips or combs for effortless application.   If you cannot find a color or texture to match your hair then all you have to do is purchase a bulk of weave and some wig clips and you can easily make them yourself.   There are small holes on the wig clips on either side that allows you to attach the clip to the hair by sewing.   You can quickly create various styles by just rearranging the order of the clip-ons.

Fortunately, Black women were blessed with the best of both worlds.   We were born with naturally kinky hair, which can be styled in limitless ways and does amazing things.   Today we can choose to have an afro, and tomorrow, straight hair.   While the market is littered with convenient products, I prefer to utilize the God-given ones as a first option, and then the chemically charged as a last resort and you should too.

Resources

How to Add Volume to Hair

Heat Damage

A common reason for breakage is heat damage. Improper heat styling techniques such as hot curling, flat ironing, blow-drying and straightening combs, can easily damage the hair when not executed correctly. Thankfully, there are products available that coat and protect the hair shaft from excessive damage due to heat styling. Recognizing the difference between hair types is essential in maintaining the proper health of hair. Purchasing heat styling products with temperature options is a smart start to ending breakage due to excessive heat damage. For women with fine hair, styling under low heat is advised, as this hair type is much more fragile and takes to heat styling faster.

The Fix: Use a heat styling protectant like to Frizz-Ease by John Frieda to guard against further damage. Women with fine hair should not apply temperatures over 300 degrees to their hair. Turn the dial down a few notches and reduce the heat.

Chemical Processing

Women of all races indulge in the vast selection of hair color; however, Black women are at a disadvantage because our hair is already naturally drier than that of Caucasian women. In order to maintain the health and moisture of our hair, regular conditioning, and treating is necessary in controlling breakage. When our hair undergoes chemical processing, the hair shaft is stripped and the strands are weakened. Hair bleaching is a harsh process that has caused thousands of women extensive damage and hair loss. Relaxers can have the same effects that bleaching does when not applied properly. Additionally, use of the incorrect type of relaxer can also cause hair breakage and hair loss. It is imperative to purchase only hair products that are hair type specific. Finding a conditioner suitable for your hair ailment is very easy and just requires a small amount of research. Never use a conditioner or treatment that is not designed to treat the current condition of your hair. This is just as bad as over processing. Some conditioners have a built-in timer where the chemicals reaction weakens to the point of ineffectiveness after a certain amount of time has passed. These types are better because sometimes-busy schedules and multi-tasking does not allow for precise timing. In any event, leaving treatments on longer than instructed processing time can do more damage than good.

The Fix: Use only products specifically designed for certain hair types. When possible try to follow the manufacturer’s directions thoroughly. Always follow chemical processes with deep treatments and remember to follow up as often as necessary.

Hair Accessories & Clothing

Every woman wants to feel beautiful while wearing her favorite accessories but at what cost? The end of the hair shaft is extremely delicate and susceptible to breakage quite easily. Clothing such as coats and scarves can rub against the hair end causing the tiny ends to become entangled with the fibers of the clothing. Constant contact with fibers other than silky and satin-type fabrics will cause damage to hair ends causing them to split and eventually break. While many Black women enjoy the look of wearing their hair down, it is not advised to do so too often, especially when you do not readily have the option of wearing smoother fabrics. Sleeping with hair opened on cotton and linen pillowcases contribute to tangles, dryness, and breakage. Hair rejuvenates at night and needs to be protected while sleeping.

The Fix: Whenever possible, eliminate the use of elastic and rubber band hair accessories that pull and break the hair shaft forcefully. Try to limit the amount of non-protective styling in your routine. Always wear a satin cap at night or sleep on satin pillowcases, this helps retain the hair’s moisture while you sleep.

Summary: Black hair is much more fragile and prone to dryness and breakage because of the naturally curly texture. The curlier the hair the drier it is, that is the rule of thumb. While it is easy to fall victim to excessive breakage, it is also just as easy to prevent it. No matter how funky your styling becomes through the week always remember that less is more when it refers to hair. The less you bother with it, the happier it is. Whether natural or relaxed the best thing one can do for her hair is to regularly treat and condition.

Resources:

Top Ten Heat Protectants

Best Black Hair Color

Credits

The Examiner

Chronicles of a Social Esquire

You need to pay close attention to how you take care of your baby’s hair, but you don’t have to do too much to it.   Those times will come later, and you will remember with longing when you didn’t have to do too much of anything to make your little darling’s hair look beautiful.  Some African American babies are born with nary a strand of hair on their heads, while others burst into the world looking like they’re wearing wigs.   For both babies, the regimen is simple.

Be Gentle!

Always keep in mind that your baby’s tender, soft scalp is still in the early stages of development.    It’s still very fragile and cannot withstand the stress that comes from too much pulling and combing.   You also shouldn’t use many of the products that you use on your own hair.   Many of those products are too heavy for young tresses and can weigh them down, putting undue stress on developing follicles.   Those same products may also contain ingredients that could cause scalp irritation and rashes.    With babies and hair care, less is always more.

Washing Your Infant’s Hair

• Choose a mild, gentle baby shampoo and apply a small amount to your baby’s scalp.   Adult shampoos have higher pH levels than baby shampoos, and those higher levels can cause a baby’s hair to tangle.  Use baby shampoo or the mildest regular shampoo you can find.   Using a soft cloth or your hand, gently smooth the shampoo over the baby’s head.  You’re not trying to work up a lather, but instead merely allowing the shampoo to remove and dirt and oil that may have built up.
• Remove the shampoo with lukewarm water.  Follow up with a mild conditioner, especially as your baby gets older.   For babies with longer hair, use a wide-toothed comb to – gently – work out any tangles.   As your baby’s hair grows, it may become thicker, curlier, and more prone to tangling and dryness, and will benefit from the conditioning properties of a mild, moisturizing conditioner.
• After the wash, you may want to apply a dab of natural oil like extra virgin coconut oil.  Oils like this can help keep your baby’s tresses from drying out.  Run your fingers through your baby’s hair to style, or use a soft brush or wide-toothed comb.

Styling Your Infant’s Hair

‘It may be hard, but you should try and resist the urge to style your infant’s hair except for events like picture day or special outings.  There is plenty of time for that later.  This is the time in baby’s life when the hair can and should be for the most part be left alone.

• Styling products, or accessories like barrettes or beads, can cause stress and damage on an adult’s hair, so imagine what it can do to an infant’s hair.  Don’t use rubber bands.   They pull and break the hair right off, even on an adult’s head.  Instead, use accessories like coated hair ties that are specially made to protect the hair from damage.
• Don’t pull your baby’s hair back in too tight a ponytail because it will break off right at the hairline.   If you want to pull the hair back, loosely hold it back using a silk-lined hairband.

Shedding “Baby” Hair and New Growth

Your baby may shed hair in the first six months, and the new hair that grows in its place may be a different texture and color than the original hair. This is completely normal and should not be a cause for concern.  If the new hair is dry, you will need to make sure that your baby’s receives plenty of moisture and conditioning from natural oils and conditioners that infuse the hair with moisture as well as seal it in.   Don’t resort to chemical processes on your child’s hair (people have done it!).  You will permanently damage your child’s hair.

Cradle Cap

Many African American babies get cradle cap, which tends to show up in the first six months of life.  It presents as scabby, crusty areas on the scalp.   It’s very common, and usually goes away by itself.   Check with your baby’s doctor to confirm that’s all it is, and then just take care of the area by gently rubbing it with a soft cloth when cleaning the scalp.   You can also use a softening oil like coconut oil to sit on the area for about 30 minutes to soften the area.  Do not rub or comb the area to hard, which may lead to irritation.

References:

African American Babies: Hair Care http://www.babycenter.com/0_african-american-babies-hair-care_10330036.bc

Miracle Whip Facial

Miracle Whip Salad Dressing can be applied to your skin to make a highly effective facial peel and mask. Merely take some Miracle Whip in your hands and apply a thin layer to your face.   Allow it to dry for about ten minutes. Using the tips of your fingers, rub your fingers back and forth across your skin until little beads of dry skin roll off. People are amazed at how smooth their skin feels and how soft it looks after spreading this sandwich spread on their faces, but when you think of the ingredients, it makes sense.   The vinegar helps exfoliate the skin, and the other ingredients like soybean oil help soften.   Do a test patch first to make sure your skin isn’t sensitive.

Castor Oil/Sunflower Seed Oil Cleansing

It seems your mother and granny knew something about something when they used to shove spoonfuls of castor oil down your throat.   Castor oil has amazing anti-inflammatory, cleansing and healing properties, and works by drawing dirt and oil from the skin.   Coupled with a soothing, moisturizing carrier oil like sunflower oil or extra virgin olive oil, it can make an amazing cleanser for your skin.   Too much castor oil can actually be drying so hence the need for a penetrating, moisturizing oil.   For dry skin, use a mix of about 10% castor oil, and 90% olive or sunflower seed oil.   For oilier skin, you’ll want to up the percentage of castor oil in the mix.   Blend your two oils together.   Rub a quarter sized portion onto your face, and slowly massage it into your pores.   Take a clean washcloth and run it under hot, steamy water.   Gently place the washcloth over your face and hold it there, allowing the steam to penetrate your pores.   When the washcloth cools, wipe away the oil, run the washcloth under hot running water, and repeat two or three times.   You’ll be left with cleansed, soft skin!

Aspirin Mask

This mix manages to astonish those who are trying it for the first time.   It should be noted that if you are allergic to or have sensitivity to aspirin, you should not use this treatment.   Aspirin is a type of Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA), the exfoliating ingredient found in skin creams that is used to slough off dead skin and clarify skin tone.   To make your mask, take three aspirins, and let them melt in a tablespoon of warm water.   Take your fingers and spread the mix over your face.   Allow it to dry for a few minutes before rinsing with lukewarm water.   Follow up with a moisturizer. Voila!   Smooth, buttery skin.

Crisco

Who knew Crisco could actually do your body good?   So while whipping up a batch of your famous spicy, fried shrimp (which will only end up on your hips), slather some of the shortening onto your face and body.   Crisco has moisturizing capabilities that stretch all the way from the aesthetician’s office to the hospital room.   Doctors have used it as a post surgery healing cream thanks to its deep moisturizing and restorative properties.   It’s great for dark skin, particularly in winter when it’s most prone to dryness, and it helps combat skin conditions like eczema. Crisco can also be used as a deep conditioning treatment for the hair.   Use it as a pre-wash treatment, or run a quarter-sized amount through natural hair as a natural sealant.   It has no smell, so contrary to what you may think, people won’t be wondering if someone’s cooking chicken every time you step into a room.

Hemorrhoid cream

It seems that what’s good for one end is apparently good for the other.   If you’re suffering from under-eye bags and puffiness, you may want to apply a dab of hemorrhoid cream.   The active ingredient in hemorrhoid creams like Preparation H (phenylephrine) constricts blood vessels, which is how it works on hemorrhoids.   It attacks dark circles and puffiness under the eyes in the same way.   You just need a little dab, and you shouldn’t do it often. It’s more a temporary fix for date night!   If you’re out of H cream, try a spoon dipped in ice water.   Close your eyes and roll the icy spoon around your eye pads.   It will help reduce swelling.

References:
Weird Makeup, Skin Care and Beauty Tips
http://www.makeupandbeyond.com/Weird-Makeup,-Skin-Care-and-Beauty-Tips.php
Weird Skin Care Tips: Skin Care Products You Would Never Think Of
http://smarthealthandbeauty.com/weird-skin-care-tips-skin-care-products-you-would-never-think-of/
Banish The Bags Under Your Eyes
http://www.webmd.com/healthy-beauty/features/banish-the-bags-under-your-eyes?page=2

Tools Needed

• Flat Iron – Recommended brands are:   Sedu, Kenta, Solia, Infrashine, Ghd, CHI, Hai & Paul Mitchell.
• Heat/Thermal Protecting Serum – Best options are:   CHI Silk Infusion, John Frieda Frizz-Ease Hair Serum, Aphogee Keratin Green Tea Moisturizer, Sabino Moisture Block & also Redken Smooth Down.
• Firm Bristle Brush & Comb
• Hair Clips & Hair Pins
• Hair Serum- Smart choices are: Olive Oil, Jojoba Oil, Castor Oil, Carrot Oil or Frizz Ease Smooth Serum.

The Preparation Process

• Wash and condition your hair as you normally would and lightly towel dry combined with a bit of air-drying.   Also you could use a blow dryer to speed up the process and fully dry out the hair before
  adding direct heat from the flat iron.
• Part the hair into four equal quadrants, then twist and pin each section separately.
• Release one section and brush through thoroughly with a firm bristle brush.
• Only apply the heat protecting serum to the length and ends of your hair.   Use only three drops per section.  (For thicker hair, more serum might be required).
• Again, you will need to separate that quadrant of hair into smaller sections.   These sections should be small enough just so the flat iron can adequately secure the hair in-between the plates.   (You can pin aside the other sections until your ready to flat iron them).

Technique

• Take hold of the brush and begin to brush through a small section of your hair from the roots, in the other hand take the flat iron and clasp it over the hair following the direction of the brush.   Balance the weight and length of the hair with both the flat iron and brush until the entire section is smooth and straight.
• Repeat this process every eight to ten seconds, giving the hair a chance to cool down a bit before directly applying another dose of heat – Your hair should not need more than 3 strokes of flat ironing.
• As each section of hair is straightened, clip it aside loosely.   Avoid bending, curling or pining up the hair once it is straightened.
• When you are done straightening your entire head of hair, rub a few drops of serum in the palm of your hands and then gently smooth over the surface area, hairline and ends of your hair.

Notes & Results to Expect

• For softer and straighter results, try to maintain a seamless and steady movement of the flat iron over your hair.
• Using the brush immediately before the flat iron separates the strands evenly so that your hair feel smoother and softer once the flat iron runs over it.
• Taking a couple seconds break between each stroke of the flat iron minimizes damage and breakage and helps to keep your hair smelling fresh oppose to burnt.

Follow this amazing technique and you will see how much better your hair looks and feel.   The hair will stay straighter for longer without having to run it over with the flat iron later on.   This will keep damage, if any, at a minimal level giving you more opportunities to repeat flat ironing your hair.   Ultimately, avoiding the flat iron is the best option; try to only do this for special occasions or at least twice a month.

Fact:

Relaxers burn, sting, and cause discomfort to the scalp and hairline when applied incorrectly.   Additionally, the scalp of a small child can suffer irreplaceable damage due to the lye and calcium hydroxide contained in relaxers that straightens the hair.   This can lead to thinning temples and hairlines and can retard the hair growth.   There is no such thing as a “kiddie” relaxer as is advertised.   The only difference is the packaging.   It is strongly advised not to use before age 12 or 13 because of the damaging effects. Calcium Hydroxide is the additive that reconstructs the hair texture in “kiddie” relaxers and not lye.   However, lye can be made from it and is just as harmful.

As I stated earlier, I have to work with both extreme hair types and sometimes it’s difficult to manipulate the hair in the way that I want it.   Isn’t it so much easier to just put on a little relaxer for faster and simpler styling?   Just a quick application should do, right?   Well, if you’re tempted to do so then maybe you should pump the breaks on it and wait a few more years until her hair and scalp has matured a bit more.   It’s really in the best interest of her delicate hair growth as a child transitioning to an adult.   Having our hair relaxed as little girls, was a rite of passage as we matured from girl to young adult.   Why should it change?   I’m not against relaxers, but I am against relaxers at a very young age.   In the meantime, teach her to love her natural hair as it is and later on, if she decides she wants a relaxer, give her the same support.   However, until then you probably need a little guidance on how to deal with her natural hair and how to limit frustration when dealing with it.

Here are a few ways to better deal with her natural hair.

Super Kinky Hair – Heat Straightening

If you can’t get away from the idea of straight hair then use heat instead of chemicals.   Straightening combs and flat irons provide the silky, straight textures achieved with relaxers without the chemicals.   It is safer but there are also some risks involved with heat styling.   Be careful to pay attention to the texture of the hair and set the temperatures accordingly.   Fine, soft hair should be styled at temperatures below 300 degrees to prevent singeing.   Coarser textures can stand higher temperatures and will not straighten completely on low heat.   Three hundred to 400 degrees on thick coarse hair will give you the desired effect.   Never straighten the hair without first applying a heat protectant sealant.   Implementing this product seals in the hair follicle and prevents moisture from reaching the strand, which will cause the natural curl pattern to return.   Additionally it coats the hair and prevents it from being damaged by high temperatures.

Dry Hair – Moisturizers

If her hair sounds like a chip bag being crumbled as you comb it then you definitely need moisturizers.   There are kiddie products on the market that are petroleum based and contain lots of oil.   It is important to know that grease does not equate to moisture.   Water moisturizes, not grease.   However, in my experience, after using almost everything on the market on my own hair, I’ve found that Mane and Tail shampoo and conditioner are the best for me and my girls’ hair types.   The shampoo is good at removing oily build-up but the conditioner is amazing!   It moisturizes and defines the curls leaving the hair so soft and smooth.   Best of all you won’t have to spend a small fortune either.   Petroleum based products work best on wet hair as they seal in the moisture from post conditioning.   Products like Organic Root Stimulator and Motions have excellent product lines for children that make styling much easier.

Protective Styling – Just Leave it Alone!

The best thing anyone can do as far as Black hair is concerned is to leave it alone.   Why do so many of us have this problem?   Black hair grows best and fastest when it’s not bothered with.   If you don’t like the everyday styling then I would suggest having her hair braided once every 1-2 weeks.   Not only will you get a much-deserved break, but also by doing this, you are allowing her hair to grow uninterrupted.   Where Black hair is concerned, less is always more.

Kimberly Kimble – Hairstylist to Beyonce:   Everything starts at the base– how you shampoo and condition the hair.   Then, think about how you are going to blow dry and lay in the curls.   I use different techniques when I blow dry.   If the hair is going to end up full, you don’t want to straighten it too much, so try to leave some of the texture in.   If you’re going for a straight style, of course, you have to straighten it with a flat iron to get it bone straight from the root to the ends.   You need to put product in the hair that’s going to keep it shiny, silky and smooth and protect it from the heat.

Anthony Dickey – Textured hair expert & creator of Hair Rules:  The biggest misconception about kinky hair is that it is rough and tough.   On the contrary, it is the most fragile texture on the texture spectrum and should be cared for like your favorite cashmere sweater, not a tee shirt.   Kinky hair – especially when worn straight – needs extreme hydration at every step of your hair care routine (cleansing, conditioning, styling and finishing) to look its best.   Kinky hair naturally tangles and locks.   If your goal is to grow your hair (and not to lock it), then preventing it from tangling is crucial.   The more you rinse, condition and detangle, the more you prevent hair from drawing up, drying out, and breaking.   Remember, healthy hair allows you the freedom to wear your hair however you choose, be it kinky, curly or straight.

Diana DeCosta – Author of Textured Tresses:   I believed in using relaxers for those who want it, but from then on I never relaxed the hair bone-straight, which was what everyone else was doing.   I developed my own technique of texturizing and softening the hair.   There is still always a wave pattern in the hair once the hair is softened.   If you want your hair 100% straight with a relaxer system, then you go to somebody else.   You don’t come to me.   This is where client education comes in:   After the relaxer or texturizing application—the additional heat actually makes the hair straight.   So if you over-process the hair or relax your hair at 100% straight, and then you roller-set it or blow-dry it, now it’s at 110%, 125%.   Now you’re over the limit;  you’re breaking your hair.   I tell my clients, “So you want me to damage your hair, right?   But guess what—I’m not doing it.”

Ursula Stephen – Hairstylist to Rihanna:   Ursula is a big fan of conditioning because it adds lots of shine and helps keep damage from hot styling at bay.   She also is a fan of curling waxes and likes Elasta QP and Ojon Oil.    Keeping her celebrities looking polished is important and she likes both products for a very polished finish.   As a deep conditioner, Ursula likes the results of creamy, dense conditioners like that of Bed Head from TIGI.   She loves her GHD flat iron, because she “travels overseas a lot and it is dual-voltage, which saves her from any more iron-in-the-fireplace adventures.   In addition, because she has to re-heat the tresses of her clients many times during the course of a day, she likes the FHI Hot Sauce because it’s “great for again and again heat”.

Tippi Shorter - sought after hair-care specialists in the entertainment industry:   You gotta prep the hair with a great shampoo and conditioner.   Condition first — I use that on anyone’s hair as a heat barrier.   When you’re changing the style you need to be cautious with the cutting.   You want to make sure the shape you get works for both relaxed and natural hair. Same goes for color.   Like right now, Rihanna has a graded hair color, that may not work as well for a style going between natural and heat straightened.

Chemical peels are an effective way to deeply exfoliate the skin to help peel off the layers and get rid of acne, scars, fine line, wrinkles, etc.   With ethnic and darker skin tones, however, some dermatologists recommend certain types of chemical peels that may only help depending on the person’s skin type and condition.   Many simply do not feel comfortable treating darker skin with the stronger chemical peels like TCA- which helps with removing acne scarring- since darker skin is more prone to keloids (raised scars). Using a chemical peel like that on dark skin could cause further damage if used improperly, a risk that a dermatologist isn’t willing to take.

So, what exactly is safe and effective for darker problem skin?

Mandelic acid is derived from bitter almonds, and is an excellent alternative to glycolic acid, which can cause some discomfort when applied- especially if you have sensitive skin like me.   The salicylic acid helps those with acne, hyper-pigmentation, uneven skin tone, fine lines, and acne scarring issues.   When you combine both of these acids, you have a product called the Mandelic / Salicylic Acid peel (15%) that can handle the above mentioned skin problems, and is one of the few combinations of acids that is safe and effective to use on brown skin!

I decided to buy the peel from an online site called Make Up Artist Choice.   I was happy to see that they offered samples of their products for a low price, plus I did some research on the ingredients, so I gave it a shot.   I mean, I tried everything under the sun, and everything failed to deliver the results.   Now, I very rarely write reviews on products, but when I say this product exceeded my expectations, I was not exaggerating.   This product is wonderful because it is all natural- and it actually works.   No amount of words can express my satisfaction!

Just to give some back story on my condition:   I have dry and sensitive skin that gets worse as the seasons change.   This product drastically reduced the appearance of my spots and would stop acne in its tracks.   Whether you suffer from hyper-pigmentation, scarring, acne -or all the above- it only takes about 4-5 days for you to see improvement in your skin!   Of course, you have to keep doing this over time to get the best results.   I have been using this for about a month now, and my skin has done a complete turn around.

The actual application of the acid varies, but for me, I felt a slight burning (but tolerable) sensation.   After about 5 to 8 minutes, the area where I applied the acid began to “frost”, or turn white.   This is normal, and it lets you know that it’s working.   In about 3 days, the dead skin peeled off!   If you have less sensitive skin, you may experience a “warming” sensation, or slight tingling.   Some people will see actual peeling of the skin, while others will just notice the excellent exfoliation benefits and a brighter, more glowing skin tone.

Post peel care is vital to maintain the results from your treatment.   Don’t even think about doing any type of chemical peel without using a sunscreen of at least SPF 30+, even in the winter.   Not doing so could irritate the fresh and delicate skin from the peel, and all of your hard work (and money) would go down the drain!   Use Neosporin, shea butter moisturizer, and drink lots of water to stay hydrated.   Doing this speeds up the healing process and makes the dead skin slough off with no problems.

You can go to the makeup artist choice website  to check out their selection of products.   You may order a sample of the peel from their website for about $9, plus free shipping.   I have finally found something that works for me, and wanted to share the wealth.   I am happy that I didn’t have to spend a huge amount of money at the dermatologist’s office to do a procedure that I did on my own vanity table.

Oh, and MUAC, you have earned a customer for life!

The pH levels in relaxers generally go from 10 – 14, with the higher levels found in the stronger formulations like “super” strength, and the lower strengths found in the milder mixes.   As the pH level goes up, the hair’s shaft swells and the cuticle rises, leaving it exposed and vulnerable to becoming broken and damaged.   In general, the active ingredient in any relaxers penetrates the hair’s cortex, irreversibly and permanently loosening the hair’s curl pattern.

Lye Relaxers

• When you buy a lye relaxer, you’re buying a chemical mix that has a higher pH level than a no-lye formula relaxer.   This increased pH level means that they’re stronger formulations, and for that reason, are often only available to the industry.   When you open the box, you’ll notice that the relaxer comes pre-mixed and ready to go.   No-lye relaxers are the ones that come with the activator included which has to be mixed into the formulation in order to “activate” the sodium hydroxide.

• Lye-based relaxers are not as harsh on the individual hair strands as no-lye relaxers can be.   Because they rinse off without leaving the ingredients found in no-lye mixes that tend to coat the hair and leave it looking dull, the strand of hair is able to absorb moisture well, and ends up looking shiny and feeling silky.   They tend not to damage the hair strand as much because the disulfide bonds in the strands don’t get broken down as much as they do with no-lye relaxers.

• Conversely, this also means that they hair won’t get as straight as with a no-lye relaxer.   This is good news for those women looking for mild straightening.    The chemical process in a lye-based relaxer works really quickly thanks to the high pH levels, so it doesn’t take a long time to straighten.    That’s another reason that professional stylists are generally ones that work with these relaxers.   They need to be applied in the right way and as quickly as possible, and then washed out right away to avoid damage.    The chemicals last a long time in the jar, so if you don’t use the whole jar, you can store it for later use.

• Lye relaxers may be easier on the hair, but they’re harder on the scalp, another reason that application should be left to the professionals.  Women often end up with scalp burns due to the highly corrosive lye.   The lye based relaxers that straighten better are called base formula relaxers.   These formulas are so strong that a petroleum base needs to be applied to the head to protect the scalp.    It’s recommended that you use a petroleum base with a lye relaxer anyway, even if it’s not a base formula version.

• Lye relaxers cause the cuticle to lift and swell, damaging the strand.   They should be followed up with an intense protein conditioning treatment once the relaxer is rinsed off but before the neutralizing shampoo is used.  It can help repair the cuticle.

No Lye Relaxers

• With a no-lye relaxer, you’re either getting a pre-mixed formula, or one that you need to mix up.   No-lye relaxers are only good for one application.  They’re best for people who like to relax their hair themselves, and who are looking for straighter hair in the end.  They’re often used by people with fine hair.   Children’s hair relaxers are usually no-lye as well.
• The good thing about no-lye relaxers is that they’re not as hard on the scalp as lye-based relaxers.   The bad news is that they’re harder on the hair!   They leave ingredients on the hair that can make it look dull, and feel more dry and straw-like.   That’s why so many women experience hair breakage with no-lye formulations.    The disulfide bonds in the hair strands experience heavy breakage, which prevent the hair from keeping its elasticity.    No-lye also relaxers tend to take longer to process than lye-based formulas, so people tend to misjudge how long they should keep them on the hair, causing breakage.

• It’s advised that you apply a conditioning treatment to your hair prior to application of the no-lye relaxer.   This can be a moisturizing conditioner or an oil, and will help protect hair, especially the hair that’s been previously relaxed.   It’s also recommended that you use a clarifying shampoo to chelate the hair right after you rinse out the relaxer.   This can help remove those pesky minerals and ingredients that they no-lye relaxer leaves on the hair strands.   This will help the hair keeps its ability to absorb moisture and stay shiny.

Clearly, what the world is waiting for is for the relaxer companies of the world to get off their duffs and invent a formula that can blend the benefits of both types of relaxer into one super relaxer, while simultaneously eliminating the negatives of both.  Until that day, make sure that you discuss thoroughly the pros and cons of no-lye and lye relaxers with your stylist so that you can make the best decision for you.

References:

Lye or No-Lye Relaxer?

http://www.blackhairscience.com/better.html

Hair Dye and Hair Relaxers

http://www.fda.gov/forconsumers/byaudience/forwomen/ucm118527.htm

The Truth About Hair Relaxers

http://www.skinbiology.com/truthabouthairrelaxers.html

You love your baby.  You really, really do.  But when you look down and see those pale wriggly bands stretching across your belly that came courtesy of your pregnancy, it’s hard not to get dramatic, wailing, “Why, why, why?”  Or you love the weight that you finally took off after months of hard work and hard starving, but absolutely LOATHE the stretch marks that are working their way down your formerly chunky arms.  What to do, what to do?  You’d think after all these years of people having babies and losing weight, someone would have come up with the perfect cure-all for stretch marks.  They haven’t.  That’s annoying for any woman, but doubly so for women of color.  Any kind of scar or mark is difficult to get rid of on dark skin, and some of the most popular options available may not work on darker skin tones.  If you’re suffering from stretch marks, and are looking to check out some remedies, there are some things that you can do both before and after you get them.

What They Are

Stretch marks form because increased levels of glucocorticoids (the hormone released by the adrenal glands) are released during events in life that result in growth spurts like pregnancy, weight gain and adolescence.  When this hormone is released, it prevents the fibroblasts in your skin’s dermis from producing the elastin and collagen that your skin needs to keep the skin that’s being stretched nice and smooth, leaving you with stretched and “crepe-y” skin.

Can You Prevent Them?

Not if your mama had them!  Ok, it’s not a foolproof scientific fact, but chances are if your mother had stretch marks, you’ll probably get them, too.  You’ve no doubt heard that rubbing creams and oils like shea or cocoa butter directly onto your tummy when you’re pregnant can help prevent stretch marks.   The jury’s still out on whether that’s true across the board.   There are some that believe that the women who have success oiling their tummies during their pregnancies wouldn’t have gotten stretch marks anyway.  If you’re using a cream, remember that your goal is to use something that will ostensibly aid in collagen production.   Choose moisturizers, oils or creams that contain collagen builders like Vitamin A and E.  Ultimately, who gets stretch marks and who doesn’t will depend on individual hormone levels, skin and body type.

What If The Stretch Marks Are Already Here??

If you’re already stricken with the dreaded marks, there are a few options you can look into.

Microdermabrasion:   With microdermabrasion, blasts of small crystals are shot onto your skin, creating a deep, exfoliating effect that removes the top layer of dead cells from your skin. You’ll generally need about 6 treatments for stretch mark removal.  Microdermabrasion seems to be the most effective on stubborn, older stretch marks, and is safe for use on dark skin tones.

Lasers: Laser use is tricky on dark skin.  The wrong type of laser can cause discoloration and scarring on darker skin tones.  One of the most frequently used lasers for stretch mark removal on dark skin is the excimer laser, which works by stimulating melanin production in light colored stretch marks so that they grow darker and match the skin around them.   Doctors will also use longwave lasers like the YAG laser on darker skinned patients, since the melanin in our skin interferes with the shortwave lasers used by many doctors and clinics to remove stretch marks.   Choose your practitioner wisely, and ask a million questions, and demand before and after pics of their patients.

Creams: Many creams formulated to remove stretch marks are topical Vitamin A creams like Retina-A, which are formulated to increase collagen production in the affected area.  These tend to work best on recent stretch marks vs. older ones, and there’s a high risk of developing skin sensitivity issues.  Tretinoin, the acidic form of Vitamin A, has been shown to help some patients by rebuilding collagen to even out the appearance of your skin.  It can cause hyper-pigmentation if applied incorrectly, so make sure you use it under a doctor’s guidance.   Popular creams include Strivectin and Bio-Oil.

When in doubt, cut it out

The only permanent way to remove stretch marks is to cut them out via surgery, usually with a tummy tuck.   This method is usually recommended for women who are finished having children so that there’s less of a chance of the skin being re-stretched.

References:

Stretch Marks: Causes and Treatments

http://www.dermadoctor.com/article_Stretch-Marks_69.html

Does Microdermabrasion Have Additional Risks for Dark Skin Types? Doctor Answers, Tips
http://www.realself.com/question/does-microdermabrasion-additional-risks-dark-skin-types